Europe’s Most Epic Winter Destination Is This Fairytale Town In Italy

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If you’re anything like me, you probably know Italy for its pastel-hue, skinny townhouses with green shutters lining an azure Mediterranean, bustling street markets where you can barely hear your own thoughts over the loud chattering of merchants, and of course, that unbeatable summery feel.

I thought that was all Italy had in store (not that I’m complaining, mind you), until I decided to take a slight detour north, and stumbled upon what it’s perhaps its quirkiest, most unusual, best-kept hidden gem.

No, I’m not another clueless tourist who thinks spending a long weekend in Bellagio, on the banks of Lake Como, or strolling the now-packed streets of Bergamo is going off the beaten path in Italy. Those are yesterday’s news.

This winter, I set out to visit a small town in the far north of Italy, surrounded by snow-capped alps and exuding medieval charm, and you’d just have to be there to see my befuddled look when I walked into the first pastry shop, uttering my well-rehearsed buongiorno, only to be greeted with a… guten morgen??

This Is Not The Italy You Know From Social Media

That’s a solid enough introduction to Bressanone (or how locals call it, in their Tyrolean dialect of German, Brixen).

And now you may be wondering: if this still pasta-loving, Rome-spawned, sun-kissed Italy (or is it?), why are locals speaking German? Well, have you actually pulled up Bressanone on a map? For starters, it’s located a stone’s throw away from Austria.

Ok, maybe not quite a stone’s throw, but you can definitely bridge the gap in about 45 minutes by car. So what’s the backstory?

As is often the case in Europe, Brixen’s unique standing comes down to history. More specifically, an abrupt redrawing of borders that made zero sense culturally, but handed Italy some of its most beautiful natural scenery.

Up until 1919, Brixen (and the wider province of South Tyrol) was in fact part of Austria, until the Italians decided to claim a slice of the Alps.

You guys know me all too well by now, and you know I’m itching to give you the full run-down of events, but I’ll spare you the details. All you need to know is the Italian flag now flies sovereign South Tyrol’s jagged peaks, except…

The South Tyroleans themselves still identify as Tyrolean, speak German as their mother tongue, and remain fiercely proud of their Austrian heritage, even after more than a century of being Italian on paper.

So now you know why, the moment you cross into South Tyrol, road signs switch to both Italian and German, and suddenly it’s more icy-blonde Heinrich Müllers in suspenders than fedora-clad nonnos.

Cultural quirks aside, I still haven’t told you why Brixen actually stole my heart:

A Picture-Perfect, Walkable Storybook Town

This brings us to Brixen itself: a timeless medieval town dominated by an Austrian Baroque cathedral, it seems to have jumped straight out the pages of a storybook, and the best thing about it? It can be explored entirely on foot.

I’m talking rows of arcaded buildings running along cobbled lanes, imposing watchtowers and gates, and a Renaissance-era castle all within meters of each other, and without the usual crowds you’d find in places like Milan or Rome.

Brixen’s Hofburg, or Episcopal Palace, is nothing short of a cultural juggernaut itself, though it doesn’t get nearly half the attention it deserves: a former medieval stronghold that served as a Bishop’s residence for centuries, it even hosted a teenage Mozart at some point.

From the Hofburg, it’s a quick 2–3 minute walk to the lavishly decorated cathedral, which is itself just two minutes from the soaring White Tower, the medieval bell tower overlooking the gabled rooftops of the Old Town.

Europe’s Most Underrated Festive Getaway

Surrounded by a moat and boasting richly-frescoed rooms, the Hofburg is that one must-see cultural site if you’re in Brixen this season, not only due to its historical weight, but also due to the fact it’s where this season’s Light & Music Show takes place.

Set right on the palace’s main court, it’s a colorful feast for the eyes scored by none other than South Tyrol-born Giorgio Moroder, the mastermind behind the music in Hollywood classics like Scarface and The Polar Express.

Brixen is a solid year-round cultural getaway, but it truly comes alive at Christmas time, when its narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets get bedecked in festive lights, and a picture-perfect Christmas Market is set up on the main piazza.

With just the right amount of wooden stalls serving local South Tyrolean delicacies and handicraft items, not the mass-produced junk you see elsewhere, a visit to Brixen’s mercatino feels like that warm, blankety hug you need on a chilly evening.

None Of The Usual Seasonal Tensions

You’re probably wondering how safe Brixen is as a destination, considering the heightened state of alert across Europe this month.

We’ve all seen the TikTok videos of Christmas markets across France, Germany and Austria being barricaded, with access restricted to only a handful of tightly-surveilled entry points, and airport-like security to ensure no bad elements get in.

Europe has a serious extremism problem within its own ranks, one that can be longer glossed over by officials, and towns known for their seasonal festivities have been particularly targeted. Well, not this peaceful, snow-dusted, fairytale town in the Italian Alps.

There are no concrete blocks fencing off the main square, nor police walking around carrying huge guns, and overall, the levels of social cohesion are tangible compared to places like Strasbourg, Cologne, or Vienna.

When you’re visiting Brixen this winter, before or after Christmas is through, you can leave your worries at the door.

Forget Pizza. This Is What South Tyrol’s Known For:

Everyone knows Naples for its iconic pizza, Florence for the mouth-watering bistecca, and Venice for its Carnival cakes, but South Tyrol leaves nothing to be desired on the gastronomy front. Small a city as it may be, Brixen has a plethora of Michelin-worthy eateries to its name.

You could go for your usual flatbreads and pasta, but this far north in the Italian Alps, we were thinking something a little more… alpine-esque.

Make sure you add Fink Restaurant to your list of eateries to check out: drawing on traditional monastic recipes, they’re known for their bratl (braised lamb) sourced straight from nearby Plose Mountain, fresh ricotta cheese, and delicate seasonal tartelettes.

Brixen is at the heart of one of Italy’s most traditional wine-making regions, so of course I had to experience a local wine bar firsthand:

In the center of town, Vinothek Vitis has an ample selection of silky local whites, and let me tell you, they wash down just fine in between forkfuls of roasted pink duck breast.

Now, if you’re craving something a little less dressy, and a thump-your-feet-kind-of alehouse, Der Traubenwirt has a delectable seasonal menu inspired by old-school Christmassy flavors.

Their duck breast risotto, with just-enough cinnamon sprinkle and mulled red wine is that happy middle ground between Austrian and Italian cuisine.

A Cozy Chalet-Style Stay In The Heart Of Town

If you’re looking for the perfect spa hotel, within walking distance of all of Brixen’s main landmarks and its five-star restaurants, Hotel Krone hits that sweet spot.

A short 5-minute walk to the cathedral square, it is a chalet-style hotel equipped with a rooftop sauna, with views of Brixen’s spire-dotted townscape, and no matter which room you get assigned, rest assured the windows will open up to reveal breathtaking mountain landscapes.

It’s also one of the best-value-for-money options available this winter, with overnight rates starting from a reasonable $156, or the equivalent in euros.

The best part? As a guest of Hotel Krone, you’re entitled to claim a BrixenCard, which allows you to travel for free across the entire public transportation system, not only within the municipality, but the whole of South Tyrol.

Top 5 Places To Visit From Brixen With The BrixenCard

Novacella

A 10th century gem nestled in a lush valley, only 13 minutes by bus from Brixen, Novacella (or Neustift in German) is a still-functioning Augustinian abbey that doubles as both a boarding school for boys, and one of the largest wineries in Italy. You know, real Old World stuff.

Other than wandering the abbey grounds, and exploring its richly frescoed rooms, inner courtyards, and the intricate stuccowork of the Baroque chapel, you can book a wine tasting experience to round off your visit. Try not to go overboard with it, as their dessert wine is truly nectar of the gods.

Plose

The majestic mountain looming over Brixen, Plose is paradise for wintersports enthusiasts. Having two left feet, I don’t ski myself, but having seen the steep slopes and epic pistes, I would strongly recommend you take the cable car up if skiing’s your forte.

And then again, even if you’re not a ski pro, you can still have a lot of fun up in Plose!

The mountain is home to La Finestra, a cozy restaurant dishing out Mediterranean piatti (if you’re unsure what to get, know you can’t go wrong with their truffle parmesan polenta), and my personal favorite thrilling ride, the Plosebob:

A mountain rollercoaster dashing up and down across the massif-side, it is certain to get your heart racing. Riding it costs only $12, and if I can give you a piece of advice, save it for after lunch. You’ve been warned.

Val di Funes

At a road distance of only 13 miles, Val di Funes is within equally-easy reach of Brixen by bus. The main attraction here is the now-iconic, solitary Church of San Giovanni in Ranui, with the sky-piercing peaks of the Dolomites for backdrop, but there’s so much more to see on a day out in the valley.

Often bypassed by tourists, the quaint mountain village of Santa Maddalena boasts its own alpine church and plenty of hiking trails for snowshoeing aficionados. I’m not one of them, but I can still appreciate the jaw-dropping panoramas from the plateau.

Vipiteno (Sterzing)

A fairytale town with its own Christmas market and medieval clock tower, Vipiteno (Sterzing in German) is separated from Brixen by a 40 min train ride, and by virtue of being directly behind the Austrian border, it feels even more staunchly alpine.

I could never get enough of South Tyrol’s festive cheer, and Vipiteno’s glühwein stalls, glazed Christmas cakes, charming boutiques, and wintry riverside strolls were all the send-off I needed before waving Italy’s less-Italian region goodbye.

What To Know Before Visiting Brixen This Season

• Book an accredited hotel that offers a BrixenCard, like Hotel Krone
• For Brixen city tours, including access to unique off-limits sites contact local guide MR Historia
• For renowned restaurants like Fink and Vinothek Vitis, make sure you book dinner a few days in advance
• If you plan on adding wine sampling at Novacella to your itinerary, book it in advance here
• The Christmas Market in Brixen is still open, from 11 am to 7 pm, until January 6
• The nearest major international airport is a 2h train ride away at Verona (VRN)

Vinicius Costa

Vini, our senior lead writer at Travel Off Path, has over 60+ countries under his belt (and currently weaving tales from Paris!), and a knack for turning off-the-beaten-path experiences into informative stories that will have you packing your bags.

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